Anyone slow pitch jigging do tell your experience. page 3 bloodydecks

Click to expand…Its not even close. Try a real slow pitch rod and its a world of difference. I like the Tsunami TSSPJC-661MH rod a lot. The tip might be flexible on the E glass rods, but it lacks the spine when a big fish is hooked up. With a good to decent slow pitch rod, you can fight a 30+ lb fish with full confidence. The Shimano Tescata is close and it has some spine, but it will not hold up to big fish. I took the Tsunami out this Friday for some rockfishing and caught some big bocaccio. The rod is amazing. The tip is very flexible on this rod. I have other slow pitch rods but they are for heavier jigs.

Its not about the fish not knowing you are using the wrong gear. You can use any rod, but you won’t get the full experience without the right setup. I think the slow pitch style of fishing has to do more with the rod than the lure. I prefer a level wind reel with the setup and the jig is not the most important part. There are all sorts of jigs you can use with slow pitch jigging. Its really the ability to control the jigs like the flatfalls and present the jig with the most action, but still can tell if there is a bite vs when its falling down erratically.

When you move the rod up and down or wind, the jig is always in constant contact with the rod so you can feel every bite during the jigging. With a stiffer rod, you actually pull the jig up too high and the line goes slack and then the jig falls down and you feel the line get tight. With the correct slow pitch rod, the jig stays in full contact while you’re jigging. It gives a much better feel when the fish bites. You have to know the slight differences. If you cranked up 10 feet and all of a sudden it feels like the jig hit the bottom of the ocean, the fish is on. Wind tight and set hook. Without the right rod, its hard to tell when the jig is bit and when its the natural bounce when you jig it up and down. Even when the jig is going down, if I feel a slight tick, I thumb the spool and pull rod up to make sure its not a fish on. Most of the time, its harder to tell during freefall since the jig is erratic. I’ve been slow jigging for the past 6 months at least and I am getting the hang of it.

It can be real subtle when the fish bites the jig vs when its in freefall. You know if you pull rod up at set speed/force or by winding on the reel, the jig moves up but still in contact with the rod tip. If the same action always keeps the jig in contact with the tip and suddenly the jig goes slack, it means you have a fish on. The slack could just be in an instant second. You have to react fast and know the difference.

I have been experimenting with different hook setups and I have two that I prefer over others. The stinger hook is good, but you get more short bites. You have to combine stinger with hook on the bottom ring. Since there is a 2 hook limit for bottom fish, you need to only have one hook on each point. Of the fish I caught, 9 out of 10, the fish is caught on the bottom hook. The treble works as well as a single hook. I prefer single hook since its easier to remove than a treble.

The inchiku jigs are a little different. There is less action on the metal jig portion but more motion on the teaser. I think the jig works better with hook on the metal jig and the teaser also. The problem is the fish may bite but its not on the right part of the jig and the connect ratio is not as good. I got more hookups when retrieving the lure at slow to medium speed at a constant rate. I think it has more to do with the position of the hook in relation to the jig. It acts like a hook on the bottom ring and that is naturally where the fish would bite (ie: ambush the jig from underneath). I will experiment with it more next time. That type of jig works better with a different jigging style. I’m not convinced that the jig doesn’t produce as well. I feel the fish just didn’t bite the right spot for a hookup.

I have not been at it a long time but I have got some decent results. Instead of worrying about having all the "correct gear" I have concentrated on how and when to use it here in Southern California. Fishing here on party boats we pretty much always have live bait at our disposal. So the first decision is always going to be is SPJ going to be as effective as live bait given the days conditions? My approach has been to have a couple of rods all rigged up with slow pitch jigs and start off fishing them. As always I let the "fish" tell me what is working best.

Some days and at some spots slow pitch jigs work really really well and I will stick with them most of the day. Other times all you get compared to fishing live bait is what amounts to by-catch. One thing I have found is that if you work them near the surface they are pretty darned effective at catching mackerel. Not a bad thing if you want to fish a fresh greenback as live bait. The point I suppose I am trying to make is that slow pitch jigging is just one technique we have at our disposal. At least in our fishery here it is never going to be the only way to fish.

I have always thought that fishing is more enjoyable when we as anglers pay attention to what is working on a given day. I know I have been guilty of fishing with blinders on many times. It is just so easy to get a picture of what we think is going to happen……. only to realize that the conditions we have "want" something different that what we are presenting. To me given the conditions here in our fishery SPJ is just another tool in my arsenal. It fits in nicely with other techniques like live bait, surface iron, soft plastics, etc… With this in mind I have tried to keep things simple.

For rods and reels I have found that I can fish the slow pitch jigs pretty well with a fast action and very sensitive graphite rod like an 8′ Phenix M1 inshore or an 8′ Okuma Guide Select swimbait rod. These rods are very sensitive so feeling a take on the drop is not an issue at all. As far as working the jig goes you can flick the jig up with the tip and allow it to flutter back down with very little effort. Not necessarily the same technique as you would use with the SPJ specific gear but it does work. I have been using Komodos and Lexas with this and can’t see any reason at all to buy any other reels. They are plenty tough and have excellent drag systems. And you don’t have to give line management a thought.