Chasers 66 restomod 408 coupe – page 8 – vintage mustang forums

So i did weld over the speedo cable hole. No worries…drilled a new one where I’d planned to and have started roughing wires through it. Sadly, it’s not big enough. I legit did not anticipate how many wires come off the Sniper. Once i have a final run of all the wires; i’ll pull everything back through, determine what grommet will work, make hole bigger, install grommet, feed wires, drink beer.

Another "issue" i’ve run into is that the Sniper’s power feed wiring works under the assumption that you have your battery in the engine bay and that you’re cool mounting relays and crap in there as well…which I am most certainly not.

I dont want to do anything brash but I’m inclined to "extend" the wires to the connector so that I can mount the relays in the cabin. I’m still thinking on this though. For those of you about to *tisk tisk* me about wire extensions…everything electrical in this car is solder reinforced w/ appropriate or larger gauge wires as my splices.

Another thing…the battery relocation. Moving the battery (and starter solenoid) to the trunk made wiring the fuel tank super easy…especially with the Painless relay kit (still need an inertia switch). However, it’s not without its challenges…one of which being getting alternator power back to the battery as well as running the starter feed. So here’s my plan:

After a lot of research this morning, I determined the 4 gauge wire to the alternator was adequate. So i’m going to stick with it combined with a fusable link at the battery. This wire will be run mostly in the cabin along the inner rockers, passing through the toe board to the wheel side of the apron, along the frame rail, and then through the apron to the alternator. Should be pretty clean and clear of the headers going this route.

I spent a good majority of time messing with the Sniper and the whole "dont want to see the wiring" battle. I ended up drilling two holes in the firewall for wires. It was too much trying to get everything shoved into one and I still need to wrap them. So i have one hole that is handling the control feeds from the Sniper, MSD wires to the coil, and gauge feeds. The other hole has the power circuits for the Sniper.

The Sniper connectors are small pin connectors that prove to be no match for a safety pin and patience. I dismantle the power connector (taking pictures of wiring orientation), fed the wires through the hole, and put it back together. I intend to mount the relays to the underside of the cowl and go about my business. Overall…i’m pretty happy with how it looks.

Only had a few hours in the garage yesterday but it was enough to get the electric fans "in" and wired. The fans are offset in the shroud so I’m a bit limited in the top bracket mounting. I opted to do a single center bracket up top and two "Z" brackets on the bottom. I figured this was going to be an iterative process so I made these out of 22ga steel. I’ll be redoing whatever my final installation is in probably 18ga for at least the bottom and preferably in aluminum. I’m content with the bottom brackets design but the top one doesnt sit right with me. With the offset in the fans, I cant really put a bracket on the drivers side and if it’s offset it’s going to really bug me. So i’m pretty well stuck with a center only bracket. I do think i’m going to make it about 6" longer (3 on each side) and add more mounting holes. I’m also thinking of making some brackets for the side hangers on the fans.

I wired a single relay to each fan so I can control them independently. I wired the Sniper electric fan outs (there are 2 of them) to the trigger wires on the individual relays. Since I’m not very trustful, I also wired a switch to relay 1 that I can force the fan on. This is connected to the orange electric feed wire from the AAW kit. Slight problem…the orange wire doesnt have 12v for some reason so I’m going to have to troubleshoot that down some more. I’m probably missing 1 of the 16000 grounds that are in this kit…

I like having lists, especially when i have a ton of stuff to do. So yesterday morning, while I was having my morning coffee, I made a list of all the crap I have yet to do. I have it hanging on a wall in the garage and figured I’d share it with you guys. This isnt an end all list and there is a backside to the paper, but it will help me track my progress and keep an eye on when I need to order things. I’ll post updated pictures of my list from time to time.

Sadly, i think i’m going to stall out soon due to needing some bigger ticket items. Im about two months ahead of where I thought I’d be during planning and there are things that will be blockers. For example, I need the rear suspension and housing to finish the exhaust to finish the fuel lines. Subsequently, I need seats and probably the Vintage Air unit before I can build the console. Anyway, I’ll keep things updated here when decisions are made.

I may have overlooked this but are you running power to the two fans/relays through the single orange wire? I’m doing my 69 with the AAW kit and ill be wiring the same fans that you have. in my other 69, I have the dual fans that are hooked up to a flexolite controller. that controller has its own fuse and acts as a relay with its soft start programming. from there I have the fitech controlling when to turn the fans on and off. im deciding on which direction to take with the fans right now. my original plan was to have the fans turned on by individual toggle switches connected to a Ron Francis wiring kit. that was before I started to rewire the whole car.No sir (or ma’am).

I have a Painless 3 relay setup. Relay 1 is to the drivers fan, relay 2 is the passenger fan (relay 3 will be for the EPAS). The Sniper has two fan trigger wires (output 1 and 2). I have output 2 run to the passenger fan. Output 1 is on the drivers fan relay trigger wire and is also tied to a switch. I have the orange "fan" wire from AAW wired to a toggle switch that, when flipped, should override the Snipers signal triggering power to the relay and turning on the fan.

I would probably not try to control the fans individually. I’d be afraid of the car overheating. The way I have this wired, the fans are always under Sniper control…i have just given myself the ability to override it and turn it on full time. Like if its summer and i’m about to head into traffic…i can kick the fan on and leave it preventing a lot of cycling. It’s also set to come on at a lower temp than the other fan.

I have a Painless 3 relay setup. Relay 1 is to the drivers fan, relay 2 is the passenger fan (relay 3 will be for the EPAS). The Sniper has two fan trigger wires (output 1 and 2). I have output 2 run to the passenger fan. Output 1 is on the drivers fan relay trigger wire and is also tied to a switch. I have the orange "fan" wire from AAW wired to a toggle switch that, when flipped, should override the Snipers signal triggering power to the relay and turning on the fan.

I would probably not try to control the fans individually. I’d be afraid of the car overheating. The way I have this wired, the fans are always under Sniper control…i have just given myself the ability to override it and turn it on full time. Like if its summer and i’m about to head into traffic…i can kick the fan on and leave it preventing a lot of cycling. It’s also set to come on at a lower temp than the other fan.

you’re right with the sir! yeah I think im tracking. my reason for the switches was so I could run 1 fan all the time, and turn the second on as needed. Even with the soft start of the controller, it runs both fans on high speed once the fitech sends the signal to turn on. my thinking is that I could just turn one on right off the bat and if need be switch the second on. I can also flip the switch to have a fan running for a while to help cool the car when parked between laps (racecar) without having to turn everything else back on.

you’re right with the sir! yeah I think im tracking. my reason for the switches was so I could run 1 fan all the time, and turn the second on as needed. Even with the soft start of the controller, it runs both fans on high speed once the fitech sends the signal to turn on. my thinking is that I could just turn one on right off the bat and if need be switch the second on. I can also flip the switch to have a fan running for a while to help cool the car when parked between laps (racecar) without having to turn everything else back on.I see. Knowing its a racecar changes my thinking a little bit. It would depend on if its a drag car or a road/autocross racer.In my last drag car, I ran the fans independently like you described. Keep one on for the actual race and kick the other one on after the run and during cool down.

Autocross / road racing, I would probably still leverage a temperature based controller but keep one fan on an override like I what I’m doing. Set one fan at a kick on of about 185degrees and shut down at 170 would guarantee it stays on pretty much all the time but still put it on an override switch to leave it on. Set the second fan for 195 and a shut off at 180. Someday, I would like to build a roadrace / drift car out of a 67 / 68 hard top…gotta have dreams 😀

Over the holidays I spent a pretty significant amount of time in the shop with the focus being on the EPAS and column install. I have a Toyota Prius EPAS motor that will be used for the install. I’ve seen many threads where people mount them, essentially, upside down with the motor end up towards the wiper motor…sometimes clocking the wiper motor 90 degrees to get a the EPAS tucked up a bit more. Then I found a thread where a fella mounted with the orientation towards the top which, more or less, hides the motor. So this is what I set about to replicate.

First thing, I removed the pedal support and attempted to mock up the EPAS. The EPAS has a 1.5" tube surrounding the shaft…which i promptly cut off so i could get more bite on the shaft…otherwise I believe the column would have been too long. In the process, i discovered theres a bearing at the base of the tube…so dont cut into that. After cutting the tube down, I tacked a piece of the original mustang column to the steel collar on the EPAS and set about mocking it up to the pedal support. This was extraordinarily difficult to do on my own but I managed. After it was all said and done, i discovered that the angle wasnt "right" and I ended up taking too much out of the pedal support. Grand scheme…small error that I’m actually okay with. I dont think the structural integrity of the pedal support is compromised in any way…even if it was, this isnt a structural part of the car. I might use the extra opening for wire routing.

Now was the kind of unnerving part…cutting up the Ididit column…mostly because they are pretty expensive units and I legit did not have any idea how this was going to work. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Ididit columns use a DD shaft for the top 20" or so from the top of the unit! I swagged a cut about halfway through the tube to discover they use two pins to attach whatever bottom shaft is ordered. My guess is so they can mass produce the top parts and easily set the lower for whatever is ordered. Whatever their reasoning it worked out GREAT since I had already ordered a DD coupler planning on "machining" a DD shaft out of both the input shaft of the EPAS and the column shaft.

Much more confident in my plan, I set about trying to figure out a length for the column. This was super scientific…i sat in the drivers seat with the tape measure and the wheel and held it to where it felt comfortable and cleared stuff. I determined 14 3/4" from the wheel adapter to the top of the EPAS was the ticket for me. I checked this about 30 times before cutting down the Ididit column.

The tube over the shaft of the Ididit column made it impossible to cut it to length so I cut the tube back about 2". There was a lot of measuring here. So, when I did all my baseline measuring i did it to the top of the torque sensor. There’s about 1/4" between the top of the sensor and the base of the shaft with another 1/2" up to where I cut the tube…adding the 3/4" of the coupler, I cut back the shaft about 1 1/2" (actually about 1 5/8"). Welded the tube section I’d cut off to get at the shaft, smoothed, painted.