Does quietrock really work

QuietRock claims to be the “lowest cost noise reduction wall panel on the market.” By just using a single sheet of it you are guaranteed a soundproof wall. And these wall panels are easy to install too, as they can be cut just like standard drywall panels with a utility knife. These walls offer sound absorption and dampening to soundproof a particular area or room.

There are different types and models of QuietRock wall panels. The standard type of sheet costs around $50 or so. On the other hand, a single sheet of ordinary drywall panel costs around $30. As you can see, QuietRock costs almost twice as much as ordinary wall panels.

However, you may need to install 8 layers of these ordinary panels to make a particular room soundproof. If you’ve got two bedrooms that share a wall, it might be worth the cost to have peace and quiet and not hear every little sound that comes from the room.

QuietRock wall panels can either be installed directly or indirectly on studs. However, to make the soundproofing quality work, there should be some kind of framing installed behind the wall. Note that if you install QuietRock on any surface that doesn’t have framing or studs, the soundproofing quality will not work. It is therefore advised that you hire a knowledgeable contractor to do the job, as this type of wall panel has special prerequisites in order to work.

The QuietRock product is really good. However, it can be quite expensive if you compare it with ordinary wall panels. But as long as you follow the right procedures on its installation, you can be sure that the system can be very effective. There are also different models of QuietRock to choose from, so you can actually go for the type that your budget allows.

If you get the model #525, it can take the place of 8 layers of standard drywall panels. Besides, there are a lot of disadvantages to installing multi-layered walls. Aside from the added expense (material and labor costs), you will also be putting too much weight on the walls. And you will also lose some of the available space in a particular room. Does QuietRock Really Work?

Yes, QuietRock wall panels work amazingly if you follow the proper steps during installation. It works effectively for soundproofing and it also works in saving you money. You see, these panels may seem to be expensive when compared to ordinary wall panels. However, if you need to install multiple layers of standard wall panels in order to make a room soundproof, you will need to spend on glue, sealers, and even labor. And that will add up to a lot of money and a lot of time as well.

Using this product (or any product for that matter) to “soundproof” a room is a fool’s errand. First of all, the term “soundproof” is a misnomer, as even an 18″ thick recording studio wall will allow sound through if (1) the sound is loud enough, and/ or (2) there are flanking paths around the “soundproof” wall for sound to follow. For example, if you install two layers QuietRock to both sides of a stud wall (with batt insulation in the stud cavities) that completely encloses a room, but there is a flanking path (could be a door undercut, back-to-back junction boxes, common ductwork, a small unsealed penetration for conduit or piping, or a number of other conditions), the room will not be “soundproof”. These types of conditions are nearly impossible to avoid in residential construction, especially in a retrofit situation. The claim that “By just using a single sheet of it you are guaranteed a soundproof wall” is horse pucky – pure and simple.

The facts are as follows: This type of product is available from many manufacturers, and are all essentially the same – thin layers of gypsum separated by a resilient septum. The septum both adds mass, and reduces (but does not eliminate) the ability of vibration to transmit through the panel. This type of product is, in fact more difficult to work with than standard gypboard, because the presence of the septum complicates penetrations for junction boxes, conduit, piping, etc. It also comes at a significant cost premium over the standard product.

As a rule of thumb, you can get the same acoustical benefit by using two layers of standard gypboard that you would realize through the use of one layer of QuietRock, or a similar product. “Soundproof” conditions will not be guaranteed under any conditions. If the goal is to increase sound isolation between adjacent areas, there is no substitute for a trained professional to come out and survey the situation. If this is the case, I recommend visiting http://www.ncac.com, the National Council of Acoustical Consultants website, and in the top center of the homepage is a link for a nation-wide (USA) directory of acoustical consultants who are not beholden to any particular manufacturer or product.

I feel it fair to point out a few innacuracies in your post above Dan. First of all, several things you point out here are fairly accurate, for instance, the realistic assertion that one cannot truly soundproof any space. One can only reduce sound transmission by degree which is dependent on a myriad of factors both associated with the barrier as designed and constructed but also as to how well flanking paths and various penetrations are evaluated and treated.

In regards to QuietRock and how it actually does what it does, the panel attenuates sound energy through a process referred to as “constrained layer damping” This process was originally developed for use in quieting aircraft. Constrained layer damping relies on a layer of a visco-elastic medium applied between two substrates. In the case of QuietRock, the two substrates used are gypsum panels. Constrained layer damping is actually a conversion of acoustical energy into heat through the action of the two substrate layers receiving sound energy and flexing and shearing against each other. The visco-elastic medium or as some people refer to as adhesive, wants to return to its shape and is attempting to prevent the two substrates from vibrating and the resultant energy is converted/expended as heat (which as you know one cannot hear!). I invite you to look up this topic on a Google search.

Furthermore, your assertion that the “septum” as you describe it, is not adding mass at all, just its inherent damping characteristics as described above. The visco-elastic being a thin adhesive layer in the panel does nothing to complicate installation/cutting as you assert here. Some of the difficulty in workability of acoustic damped (notice I said “damped” here, not “dampening” as the author describes above). has do do with the various ways that acoustic damped panels are and have been constructed in the past. Things have changed quite a bit with these panels since they were first developed.

Lastly, your statement that “you can get the same acoustical benefit by using two layers of standard gypboard that you would realize through the use of one layer of QuietRock, or a similar product” is also incorrect as the true comparison of products used in the assembly of a partition wall or barrier can only be done through a direct comparison of products in side-by-side laboratory acoustical STC testing. STC (Sound Transmission Class) ratings are determined by all of the components that are part of the overall assembly and also pertaining to the assembly configuration. It is my experience and from our fairly extensive testing of QuietRock in various third-party independent laboratories that acoustic damped drywall panels can significantly out-perform mulitiple standard gypsum layer assemblies. However, in evaluating this, it is important that comparisons are “apples to apples”. This unfortunately gets missed quite often in “from the hip” comparisons made.

Sorry, wasn’t done! I looked here to see if anyone had put it in and had a valuable response. The guy talking like a quiet rock rep seems to know the book side of it and all of the technical specs but I’m curious about real world usage,’not lab tests. Remodels…new construction….. multi family housing party walls……. resilient channel is old technology but is still used. Cheaper but less effective as it is easy to screw up and allow a lot of flanking, which I was excited to see that word being used because I would assume those who used the word flanking might have a slight understanding of the sound wall assembly. Calm down mr assert, I’m just looking for guys that have actually installed it and can tell me about the difference from old to new tech on these set ups. I plan to call and talk to a quiet rock tech to hopefully get some ideas as the website is pretty vague and only offers a few uses and assemblies but I was hoping to hear from another builder or someone a little more experienced than the average weekend warrior that finished their basement or put on a deck for a buddy. No offense to any, just seems to be a quite a random array of theories and no real experiences except for one time hits that just say “it didn’t work.”

What is barely mentioned here is that often the real issue is the low frequency sounds. The bass – rumble – thump … however you experience it, is extremely difficult to mitigate because the “sound” (some below audible levels) travels through solids and the low frequency waves have much more energy than the higher frequencies. This is why you hear (and/or feel) the neighbor’s bass from their sound system but not the higher notes. Often the audio source in your neighbor’s house seems somewhat moderate to them, but the walls of your house act like a “drum” to make it worse. Trucks roaring by cause similar vibrations. These wall systems are not designed for that.

Extreme measures are necessary to reduce this transmission. Thick concrete walls may help. A super engineered “room in room” may help. I am NOT an expert, just a long time sufferer who has done a lot of research. Sell the house. That will be your least expensive solution. But beware – with the power of current sound systems, someone in your new neighborhood will be creating the same problem for you.